From Interlaken to Zermatt
對電影迷來說，2001-2003期間每年聖誕節的盛事，就是買票進電影院看《魔戒三部曲》了… 有次去瑞士旅行，在策馬特(Zermatt)投宿的那晚，無意間在旅館發現一本小書，上面記載著托爾金(J.R.R.Tolkien)進牛津大學前─從丘陵起伏的英格蘭，前往高山環繞的瑞士─那段啟發性的旅程！
19歲的托爾金與一群年輕友人從茵特拉根(Interlaken)走向策馬特，也就是從少女(Jungfrau)峰山區翻山越嶺到馬特洪(Matterhorn)峰山區… 夜間簡單寄住民家、或搭營露宿野外，這段長途跋涉，旅程雖然十分艱苦，卻更親近大自然……
秀麗村莊、崇山峻嶺、永恆冰河… 無不衝擊青年托爾金心中的想像世界！真實冒險旅程結束後，他也完成了自己筆下的一段冒險─《哈比人歷險記》！而少女峰山腳的瀑布鎮〈Lauterbrunnen〉，正是精靈所住的Rivendale場景！
幾年前曾掀起一股《魔戒》熱，大家紛紛前往紐西蘭尋訪電影中的中土(Middle Earth)，可是真正托爾金心目中的中土，似乎正在瑞士這片人間仙境呢！
The Prisoner of Chillon~ Text of the Poem
I
My hair is grey, but not with years,
Nor grew it white
Paradises are always the final destination of travelers but are inevitably spoiled by them in the end. The ideal paradises must have astonishing beauty and heavenly peace. By their very nature, paradises are essentially isolated from people to avoid pollution. Because paradises are irresistible to travelers, more and more travelers would go to the paradises to experience their beauty and peace. But the destruction and the disturbance brought by travelers eventually put paradises in jeopardy. Hence, to live in the paradises is initially a joy but turns out to be a disaster. The Beach illustrates this problem that all travelers have. In short, travelers are unaware that they usually spoil the paradises in two ways. The first way is that they ruin the environment of the paradises. The second way is that they destroy the peace of the paradises.
Most travelers have a tendency to bring worldly things, more or less, to where they settle. This is the first way that the travelers ruin the environment of the paradises. In fact, in order to make their lives more comfortable, travelers like to develop the paradises. This development includes transportation, housing, and entertainment. One example presenting the housing development of the paradise in The Beach is, “At first glance, the camp…[has] a large, dusty clearing surrounded by trees, with some huts and a few tents. At the far end was a larger building, a longhouse, and beside it the stream from the waterfall reappeared” (20). Another example showing the entertainment development of the paradise is, “Sal had organized a huge team of football” (27). Indeed, too many developments make the paradise become very plastic. As a consequence, paradises are no longer paradises since travelers ruin the natural beauty of the paradises.
The other way is that travelers destroy the peace of the paradises. After travelers settle in the paradise, they are predisposed to form groups by their nationalities, their characters, their professions, their hobbies, and their benefits. Gradually, they separate into several different groups. As Richard, the book’s main character, said, “This, then, was the politics in the camps, and we all had to deal with the situation in our own way” (61). Sometimes, conflicts happen between the different groups. Because the first arrivals take possession of the paradise, they often try very hard to push newcomers out. This desire is also shown in the book; as Sal said, “The beach is my life, Richard, but it’s yours too” (80). If this strong desire is threatened, the first arrivals will even kill people to protect their possessions. For example, in the book Richard said, “[Sal] wanted me to find Karl and kill him”. In this situation, a paradise to a maniac is just like a beautiful wife to a crazily jealous husband. Unfortunately, paradises become bloody worlds because, on some levels, humans are animals. Therefore, paradises are no longer paradises because travelers destroy the peace of the paradises.
No matter where the travelers go, no matter what paradises the travelers find, paradises become spoiled when too many travelers go there. Travelers love the paradises but always insensibly ruin the natural beauty and the peace of the paradises. If there were no travelers, there could be paradises. Maybe the real paradises can only exist in travelers’ dreams.
Chicago and San Francisco
Chicago and San Francisco are the two United States cities that I have lived in. Chicago, the windy city, is located in the Midwest. San Francisco, the foggy city, sits in the West. Chicago is very like San Francisco in that they are both metropolises, beautiful cities, good environments for education, and full of art events. However, they are somewhat different in their geologic natures and social characteristics.
Both Chicago and San Francisco went through horrible disasters in the past. Chicago was almost destroyed by The Great Chicago Fire in 1871; likewise, San Francisco was nearly ruined by a killer earthquake in 1906. Both cities were rebuilt in the ensuing years. Nowadays, Sears Tower (now renamed as Willis Tower) and John Hancock Center symbolize the modern Chicago; similarly, Golden Gate Bridge represents the new San Francisco. Both cities have the same active commercial activities. Many department stores, such as Bloomingdales and Saks Fifth Avenue, are mainly on grand Michigan Avenue in Chicago. Several luxury shops, like Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus, are mostly around Union Square in San Francisco. Also, both cities have busy public transportation. Just as the elevated Loop (EL) train constantly goes through downtown Chicago, so cable cars move back and forth in central San Francisco.
第一次見到Trav，就被他的丰采迷住了！1988年Fall Quarter，剛到Northwestern不久，便打電話跟他約好見面時間，地點就在Trav的實驗室。他電話中聲音顯得非常開朗、熱情，心想能在這樣個性的教授門下，應該是非常幸運吧！時光飛逝，當年所學的尖端神經細胞生物理論，因著科技的日新月異，已成平淡無奇的知識。往日實驗室生活的點點滴滴，卻在時間洪流裡沉澱下來，化為生命中一串美麗的回憶......
〈Northwestern U Chicago campus~ Dept. of Physiology〉
即使二十五個年頭過去了，那天初次在實驗室見面的情景，依然仿如昨日般的清晰... Trav面帶微笑從實驗室內的辦公室走出來，修長的身材穿著墨綠色燈芯絨長褲，上搭同色系粗針毛衣；一抹淡色頭髮，自然覆蓋在前額... 標準年輕教授模樣，舉止優雅從容，更添幾分貴族味！〈那時的他，還蠻像日後的英國知名男星Hugh Grant ！〉Trav畢業於英國倫敦大學，在德國慕尼黑做postdoc，那年是他剛到Northwestern的第二年。沒想到他這麼年輕，竟然只比我大四歲而已！而實驗室的另一位postdoc Linda，則比Trav大四歲。可以說，這將會是一個非常迷你的實驗室，有著年齡十分相近的成員，問題是大家能合得來嗎？
因課程的關係，1988年Winter Quarter必須兼在Evanston研究所本部實習，我選擇去David的實驗室。David和Trav是完全不同的典型，一樣年輕英俊，卻顯得深沉而內斂。David畢業於哈佛，身材瘦削修長，天生就有一股孤傲的氣勢！眼神十分清澈安定，看來很有智慧... 每星期抽一天去David實驗室，他以貓為實驗，研究「視覺刺激對大腦皮質的影響」。實驗室裡總是靜悄悄，除了我們常收聽的NPR廣播外，一切呈現「最高品質」！David對環保議題特別感興趣，偶而會略顯興奮地和我討論一下觀點，間接也聊些生活趣事！遇見特別的發現時，趕快讓我一起看結果，並侃侃而談相關的學術理論... David和Trav彼此不熟，卻互相欣賞，這樣的善意，常不經意流露出來... 他們可說是系上兩大黃金單身漢，分佔在Evanston, Chicago兩個校區... 系上女生〈甚至男生，偶也有外系〉，多喜歡向我打探他們的訊息... 真是何其幸運，能同時在兩位帥哥門下，這一切全拜以前的醫學背景之賜......
Toronto是加拿大第一大城，位於Lake Ontario畔，地標就是CN Tower〈加拿大國家電視塔〉！整個Toronto給我印象最深刻的就是一片冰天雪地，而且即使已經是三月了，天氣還是非常的冷！這真和Chicago有得拼，可能都位居五大湖畔，緯度高加上wind chills，冬天溫度竟可降到攝氏零下二十多 度！那種凍的體驗，只能用"bitterly cold"兩個字來形容！面對長達半年的雪季，真是苦不堪言！不過發現Toronto候車亭的玻璃帷幕都盡量密封，地底下也配置熱水管以散發地熱... 這些都較Chicago先進許多！
多倫多之旅最難忘的，就是去了一趟自然奇景之一的Niagara Falls，也在Eaton Center看了正在全美熱映的都會電影《上班女郎》... 在這之前的第一天，表哥特地抽空帶我先去逛市內著名景點~
第一站先來到U of Toronto，這所大學學校很大，學生也非常的多。建築物十分古色古香，地上也鋪滿著白雪，有中世紀古老大學的感覺，聽說電影也常來校園裡取景。還特地去校園裡著名的〈哲人之路〉去走一走，德國海德堡似乎也有一條這樣的路，因康德喜歡走在那兒沉思而聞名，也算是到此一遊了！
三個多鐘頭後 ，在飄著繽紛小雪的夜晚，安抵Rhinebeck小鎮Kate家！因白天跑了許多行程，早已勞累不堪，安頓好後倒頭就睡了。 第二天就是周一，未來幾天Kate也都得上班，因此計劃由伯父母陪同，造訪附近Hudson Vallley著名的歷史小鎮......
第一天造訪Hyde Park. 這是小羅斯福總統的故鄉！因為是周間，遊客沒有很多，整個Springwood莊園，顯得優雅而清靜！現在已是博物館，解說員一一介紹。有兩個房間印象特別深刻，其中一間是邱吉爾首相的臥室，另一間則是蔣宋美齡夫人的臥室。羅斯福總統大半時間都住在此地，而訪客不僅是他生平好友，也都是世界重量級人物！此外樓梯間的dumbwaiter設計，更看出羅斯福總統遭遇脊隨病變後，下半身癱瘓的生活不便。但他仍日理萬機，治理美國國政，並縱橫世界舞台... 這兒所暢談、所發生的一切，也無不與二戰期間的人類命運息息相關！我好像站在歷史時空的長廊，緬懷地往前看，回顧開羅會議時的風起雲湧......
〈Springwood, Hyde Park, New York State ~ Predsient Franklin D. Roosevelt's hometown〉
傍晚時分和伯父母先去接Kate下班，再去一間很溫馨的小館用餐。餐後雪忽然下大了些，我們仍冒著風雪，開車前往一家電影院，看中國新秀導演張藝謀的《紅高粱》。心中有些振奮，因為在那樣一個政治凌駕一切的時代，中國電影哪怕藝術評價再高，台灣一律無緣看到！那晚電影的詳細內容，已不復記憶，依稀看見操著濃濃土腔的貧困大陸西北一片高粱田、一片染紅血，促目驚心！但當時扮演村姑，剛出道才18歲的女主角鞏俐，模樣十分清新秀麗，早已展露出不凡氣質！那一晚，在大雪中開車趕場的情景，卻是我這個電影迷，此生未曾有過的最唯美、最浪漫記憶！
第二天造訪West Point，位於Hudson，正好在Hudson River的西岸，占地約1萬6千英畝，是名震遐邇的軍校！一走進大門，即使早春的陰暗蕭瑟，也掩不住校園那股地靈人傑的優越氣質... 以「責任、榮譽、國家」為校訓的西點，曾出過艾森豪、麥克阿瑟、巴頓等著名將領！來到這兒，似乎無形中也與歷史上的榮譽有份，內心感到無比的激動與驕傲！
1989Spring break──在Northwestern University第一個長達10天的假期──趕緊跟學校旅行社訂了機票和火車票，並在好友Vivien的建議與陪同下，到Macy's添購一件時髦的粉紅色厚大衣，準備去美東拜訪在 New York upstate的大學同學Kate及Toronto的表哥。
由Chicago的O'hare國際機場出發，當時是世界最大的機場，也是UA的總部！可能是國內線的關係，來來往往的大多是白人旅客，穿著都十分優雅整齊，看來賞心悅目！ 搭了UA航班，約一個半鐘頭後，降落紐約的Laguardia機場... 發現Kate及伯父母，早已等在那兒！我們先去Flushing，這是新的Chinatown in Queens，素有「小台灣」之稱，茶點也很道地！用餐環境很清雅，又是畢業多年再次重逢，這頓飯實在吃得很開心！吃完後，開車前往位於市中心的住宿旅館。旅館外觀氣派豪華，大廳鮮花流水造景，十分美麗！晚餐就在典雅的旅館餐廳內享用，順便跟櫃檯報名參加隔天的city tour。
用過晚餐後，Kate 和我盛裝出門，在大門口攔部計程車，直奔Carnegie Hall。因特別傑出的音響設計， 許多演奏家以此廳為夢想中的演奏殿堂！果真當晚演出的莫札特音樂，經完美的硬體投射出來，顯得無與倫比的明亮愉悅！能造訪這仿如聖地般的音樂廳，真是十分興奮！音樂會結束時已近十點了，街上形形色色商店燈火通明，各色人種熙熙攘攘穿梭其間... 即使夜深了，依然光鮮亮麗，不愧是個國際化的大都會！！芝加哥地處保守的中西部，是典型本土大都市，市中心商店九點多便打烊，人行更是安靜稀少... 在熱鬧的街上逛逛，體驗一下紐約的夜生活，趕在深夜來臨前回到旅館......
〈Carnegie Hall, New York City〉
第二天一大早，遊覽車就來旅館接我們，經過美麗的第五大道... 東繞西繞後，竟然令人失望地停在Chinatown一家購物中心，還好沒強迫購物。又出發了，終於來到Battery Park的渡船口... 雖是十分寒冷的三月，路旁仍有薄薄的積雪，卻是個晴朗的beautiful day！Macy's買的粉紅大衣不但足以禦寒，而且在一片紐約都會風格的穿著中，也顯得毫不遜色！
沒來由的昏暗 三月料峭，微微光色 映照在空蕩的早晨車站
不再熙熙攘攘 街容落寞冷淡，阿給、魚丸、鐵蛋 熟悉的香味卻是依然
紅毛城 觀音山， 遠方矗立 對望；魚舟 潮汐， 近岸推擁 相伴
雨滴如豆 躍躍大地舞台，河水如帶 緩緩漂流入海
早春的淡水 安靜佇立雲靄， 娉婷神采 你愛我愛
